The Longboarder

Longboard surfers let the wave
rub up against them and respond to its cues
rather than imposing themselves upon it.

Maybe I’m becoming an existential longboarder,
allowing life to rub up against me and responding to its cues,
not imposing myself upon it.

If I could wish away the cancer
of course I would.

But, I would not wish away
what it has taught me.

The two are inseparable.

This week’s piece draws inspiration from an article by Tim Baker - ‘Thanking The Shark’. This week marks a decade since the ‘last wave’ of a good mate. Another ‘paddled out’ for the last time six months prior - both were in their 50s. Another dear friend is caught in the thick of the storm as I type - she is just 62. The words are never enough, but they are all I have.

Dream intentionally - while you’re awake.